Blog Archives - House Snake Morphs & More

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A collection of knowledge on (not just) lamprophid snakes

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4\24\2025
Unfortunately when our webhost weebly merged with square, any of these pages that had custom coding were rendered inoperable. Those that did not have custom coding are still visible. We are working to remove the incompatible code and hope to have the down pages available again as soon as possible. Terribly sorry for any inconvenience.

3/27/2025

T- Albino or T+?

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Ok so heres what you need to know.

What the T stands for in "T" albino is Tyrosinase.

The difference between T- and T+ albino is whether or not the animal has (partially) functioning tyrosinase genes (+) or not (-). Tyrosinase is a copper-containing enzyme crucial for melanin biosynthesis, catalyzing the oxidation of tyrosine to L-DOPA and subsequent reactions that lead to melanin (color) production.

If you just said, Huh?- no worries, Heres the differences for what it means for us as snake keepers/breeders:

T- have red irises as adults, and T+ have black irises.

But its really hard to tell them apart visually as newborn hatchlings until you have a trained eye for it. So its always best to keep track of lineage, but even more so if you're going to work with both.

I've never noticed any difference in temperament or care between the two. So if pet ownership is what you're after, just pick whichever one pulls your heart strings you know?

There are things that are good to know for breeders planning future pairings though:

They are not compatible genes, so if you cross a visual T- albino with a visual T+ albino you will get double hets instead of visuals.

T+'s are more of a caramel color than t-'s, (tyrosinase contains copper). They tend to turn more brown or warmer toned as they age, but not by much.

I find T-s to be more saturated in color and a bit cooler toned. Excellent for retaining locality colors when outcrossing.

T+'s are the go to choice for retaining warm tones and when you dont want that extra saturation though. For example the T- hypo butter would be kinda white or practically grey, whereas the t+ hypo butter is a gorgeous shade of soft pale yellow. T+ are considerably easier to work with when doing hypo morphs too. Its pretty easy to tell a T+ hypo apart from a t+, but its impossible to tell a T- hypo apart from a light colored T-, so that's something to be aware of.

So which one is right for you as a breeder is going to strongly depend on your end goal.

I hope that helps :)

3/24/2025

Can I use the images on this website?

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Yep happy to share, we do appreciate photo credit of course.

We get a kick out of knowing our animals have been published in various places so let us know what you're using it for if you'd like, it brings us joy. :)

3/24/2025

Why you cant "shotgun treat" file snakes for parasites

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3/24/2025

How to properly label your hatchlings

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3/24/2025

How to breed Egg Eating Snakes

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3/24/2025

How to breed File Snakes

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3/24/2025

How to breed House Snakes

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3/24/2025

How we incubate eggs at HSM

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3/24/2025

Benefits of Rack Keeping vs Glass

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3/24/2025

Do files really eat that?

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3/24/2025

Is this a mite?!

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3/24/2025

Pros & Cons of Live & FT feed

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3/24/2025

Help starting newborns on feed

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3/24/2025

Zambian or Uganda Green?

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3/24/2025

Help with handling fussy babies

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3/24/2025

Scalation based Identifications

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3/24/2025

The taxonomy mess for house snake keepers

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3/24/2025

Why does my captive born animal have parasites?!

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3/24/2025

How to sex lamprophids properly

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3/24/2025

Genetics, Localities, and Polygenic Traits, Oh my!

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3/24/2025

Troubleshooting Feeding Issues in house snakes

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